Tuesday, April 25, 2017
Monday, April 24, 2017
Saturday, April 22, 2017
Tuesday, April 18, 2017
How To Trim Fence Pickets – Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 2
If you missed part 1, here’s a little recap:
- Dad knocked over part of my fence last fall with the backhoe I rented in order to fill in and level out the back yard (it’s alright, you can laugh; we did!)
- I tried out a new product to set a new post, but it failed miserably, so I went back to using quick-dry concrete.
- Next up: fixing the water flow issue of having a fence and gate that’s touching the ground (that’s this post!)
Since my crazy furball Charlie loves to run around the yard (and tends to run straight through an open fence with no gate), fixing the fence became a priority spring project.
I had to remove the fence panels surrounding the gate in order to reset the post, so it was the perfect opportunity to fix a few more problems that had always been less than ideal. Namely, when the fence was first installed, I failed to account for how water flow might ruin the bottom of the fence and left each picket touching the ground. The result was mud buildup and an overall likelihood of needing to replace the pickets more often (from wood rot, warping, etc.).
The gate also touched the ground in spots that prevented it from opening further. Even though I’d done extensive work to even out the yard, my call to 811 last year revealed that there were utilities running near this spot, so I didn’t want to take any chances by digging up places I shouldn’t. Instead, the easier solution was to trim off enough of the bottom of the gate that it could swing open a little wider.
Some links in this post may contain affiliates, which basically give me a commission if you were to buy a product I recommend. It doesn’t change your price, though — and the income goes toward supporting this site. Thank you!
You’ll Need:
- Safety glasses and ear protection (I like the disposable ones with a cord)
- Circular saw
- Pencil (I have started using carpenters pencils, which are flatter than your traditional No. 2 and work really well for marking projects like these)
- Drill (this one’s mine) and bit that fits whichever exterior screws you buy
- Course thread exterior screws
This DIY is pretty straightforward. Starting with the fence panel on the right side, I used some nearby scalloped edging from the garden to elevate the panel off the ground and screw it back into the new fence post using exterior screws (drill slow at first so you don’t split the pickets). I could have cut off the bottom section (the part with all of that dirt buildup), but no one wants to spend more time on a project than they need to, so it was much easier just to lift everything a little off the ground than cut it down.
Next, I hung the gate back on the fence temporarily and opened it to the point where it was getting stuck. That gave me a way to make markings in the exact spot it would hang to make sure I was cutting at the correct angle. I took a spare fence picket and angled it along the fence panels of the gate. The bottom of this panel would serve as my marking line for the cut.
I ran a pencil along the bottom of the fence panel, creating a straight cutting line. While pretty much anything works to mark wood, I’ve found that carpenter’s pencils work really well for stuff like this (it’s wider and flatter than your typical marking utensil, so it runs along a board or straight edge nicely).
Next, I lifted the fence panel back up and off the gate again and laid it down on a frame from another outdoor project (I’ll be sharing that with you guys soon). This extra elevation lifted it slightly off the ground, making it easier for cutting and kept it stable. While this can be done solo (I originally moved the gate last fall on my own), the hardware makes it kind of heavy, so try to have a second set of hands if you can.
With the cut ready to go, I put on some safety goggles, lined up the cut on my circular saw, and made my cut.
Once the cut was finished, the gate went back on the hinges. This also allowed me to re-install the self-adjusting gate latch on the new post. Done!
It’s not perfect nor a particularly glamorous DIY (the gate now looks a little short compared to the rest of the fence), but I don’t mind; it serves its purpose and it looks a lot better from the street from where I started:
Of course, I still need to cut the top of the new post so that it’s not sticking up above the fence line and the fence could use a good power wash (and maybe stain?), but with everything fixed enough to be able to close the gate again, Charlie could finally enjoy the yard once more. <3
There are a few more outdoor DIYs coming up from this same weekend, so more on that new hedge and mulch line along the back fence in a future post as well!
The post How To Trim Fence Pickets – Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 2 appeared first on The Ugly Duckling House.
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How To Trim Fence Pickets – Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 2 published first on https://noambouzaglou.wordpress.com/
Friday, April 14, 2017
Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 1: How NOT to Anchor a Fence Post
When I first moved into the UDH, one of the very first projects my dad and I ever tackled was adding a small fence and gate to close off the back yard. In fact, it was the second blog post that I ever wrote — it was that early!
Since then, quite a lot of things have changed, including other improvements to the fence: replacing part of the chain link on the other side of the house, adding better gate hardware, planting garden beds next to it for added foliage (and to hide my neighbor’s fence that’s falling apart, which you can see more of in the pics below), and more. I’d like to think I’ve actually learned quite a bit about fences during that time. But last fall, there was a bit of an accident to this little section:
It happened during that awesome, sweaty week last summer when I rented a backhoe, ordered truckloads of dirt, and filled in the sink hole in a brutally humid August. My friends stopped by one night to help (truthfully, they really just wanted to play with the backhoe for a bit)…
…but as usual, it was my dad who helped out the most. Look at him go!
Please note: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which allows me to make a small commission from your purchase (but your purchase price stays the same). Thank you for helping support the blog! I appreciate it!
Even though we got a huge amount done in that week, there’s was just one little step in the wrong direction: during one of the return passes through the gate to get more dirt…
…Dad turned the wheel and crashed directly into my fence. It wasn’t enough of a collision to take out the fence as a whole or for him to be injured in any way (and it was kind of funny since all bets would have been on me to be the one with a runaway backhoe), but it did just enough damage to loosen the concrete and make the whole thing unstable. The post had been bent to an angle that could not be repaired, so I would have to replace it in order for the gate hardware (actually, the newly-installed gate hardware) to close properly.
I took the fence panel off and came up with a game plan to fix it, but I wasn’t in a huge hurry since I was busy working on lots of other projects all winter. Typically, you just buy a new pre-treated 4×4 and a bag of quick-dry concrete, reattach the hardware, and done (you actually don’t even need to separately mix the concrete… you literally pour the bag into the hole and water it down, poke it a few times to make sure the water mixes well enough, and stabilize the post so that it’s level — not a difficult DIY at all, just heavy). But as I made one of my usual supply runs to my local Orange, I spotted this little display:
According to the product’s advertising:
- This new product could fix my fence without the inconvenience of carrying around 50 pound bags of concrete through the store — “effectively replaces two 50 lb. bags of concrete mix.” Since I don’t like carrying heavy stuff unless it’s part of an obstacle course race, this was a selling point for me.
- The two components that are separated in the bag, once popped and mixed for about 20 seconds, form an expanding polyurethane resin that you pour it into the hole; in just 3 minutes, the product expands around the post and stabilizes it.
Basically, magic.
Given that I also love trying out new DIY products and being the guinea pig to see if something *really* works or not, I figured it would make for a really cool experiment. For around 3x the price (online it says it’s now cheaper, but I remember spending more), it was more expensive than the bag of concrete I’d initially planned to use, but I liked the idea of trying it out and picked it up anyway. Could it really work?
The short answer: no. Nope, nope, nope. But hey, I have cool pictures!
With the weather warming back up (and dry), the temperature was right to finally give it a try. I started by cleaning out the existing hole that contained the original post (any softer dirt, debris and such — Georgia’s red clay is pretty hard to begin with, but spring rain had caused some mud at the bottom of the hole). It may not look it from this photo, but the hole I started with was deep enough for the usual concrete that I would have poured otherwise (probably two-ish bags). It doesn’t really say it on the bag, but an online video that I found for this product says the hole should be 8 inches in diameter and one third of the length of the post should be in the ground.
I popped the bag and did a quick shimmy to get the two components to mix (note: there’s a very short window of time for this, about 20-30 seconds), then snipped a corner with some scissors and started pouring it into the post hole. The goop almost instantly started foaming up before I could snap a few pictures with my phone, which was pretty cool to watch. Over the next few minutes, I monitored the expansion and made sure the post stayed level (a post level would have been even better to use, but since I didn’t feel like making another trip to the store, two levels measuring both directions worked in a pinch).
I stood around for another ten minutes, watching the foam expand even further and even above ground (according to package directions, you can just trim off excess after it’s hardened). You’re supposed to let things cure additionally for another two hours before attaching anything to the post, but I had other things to tackle the rest of the afternoon, so I let it be for the rest of the day.
I gave it a few test wiggles that evening (well after the 2-hour “fully hardened” window on the packaging), which proved disappointing. The product wasn’t super stable around the post, and as you can see in the photo above, had even pulled away from the post while it expanded. I was still outside working on a few other things, and I could clearly see the post swaying slightly in the wind. I chose to leave it overnight and decide whether or not to re-attach the fence panel the next day.
The next afternoon, I pushed on the post. While it didn’t fall over, it still wiggled at the slightest nudge — nothing like the secure stability of setting the post in concrete. I guess one could argue not to expect they’d be exactly similar, except that the video I watched about the product literally had a guy climbing onto and hanging off the post as a demonstration of its strength. In my case, it took just a few more strong nudges, and the whole thing came right up out of the ground. Womp, womp.
Perhaps the hole I dug was still not deep enough (the foam only came up out of the ground a little, similar to what I’d seen in the video, so it looked plenty deep enough for the equivalent in concrete that it’s supposed to replace). Perhaps the ground around the hole wasn’t dry enough (the product didn’t really say much about water except to remove any standing water in the hole, and any loose soil had already been cleared out). So, while I’m sure that a lengthy investigation with the manufacturer would point out what step I must have not done perfectly in perfect conditions (because that hardly ever exists in real life, duh), I’d had enough of my experiment. I certainly think it’s cool when new products come out, and I’m willing to try them, but if the original way is both pretty much fool-proof and cheaper, I consider this a product flop.
The foam is easy to remove — I just hacked at it with a reciprocating saw and dumped the pieces. I noticed while removing it that the lack of expanding around the post was actually worse than I thought; somehow, air pockets had gotten into the resin, which probably contributed to its lack of stability.
With the junky foam shorn off, I grabbed an ol’ reliable bag of concrete and reset the post. Even though it took about fifteen minutes longer (well, a day of the other product and then fifteen minutes) to set enough to feel comfortable walking away, for me, this is the way to go from now on.
This post has gone on long enough, but there’s more that needed to still be done to get my fence and gate fixed up, so I’ll save that for part 2. And if you saw on Instagram, even more was accomplished elsewhere over the same weekend (remember this project?). More of that is coming as quickly as I can edit the photos!
P.S. In case you’re wondering, this wasn’t a sponsored post or anything, merely something I saw in store and wanted to try out. I know how it is when you see a new product and wonder if it’s worth the extra cost compared to the alternative — which is often cheaper, but more labor intensive — so from time to time, I let my house test things out. In years past, manufacturers have even reached out later to let me know these posts have helped them improve products that don’t work out, so I hope you found this helpful too!
The post Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 1: How NOT to Anchor a Fence Post appeared first on The Ugly Duckling House.
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Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 1: How NOT to Anchor a Fence Post published first on https://noambouzaglou.wordpress.com/
Thursday, April 13, 2017
Tuesday, April 11, 2017
Monday, April 10, 2017
Sunday, April 9, 2017
Friday, April 7, 2017
My New Favorite Weekend Travel Bag
I’ve finally found it: the weekender bag that fits all of my crap for an entire trip.
Recently, and for no other reason than I’d never been before and the rates were cheap, I took a trip to Asheville, NC. While I don’t get many opportunities to take whole weeks off as a rule — working for myself over these last couple of years has taught me that too long of a break means too many fires to put out when I get back — I still try to break things up by visiting cities that are a few short hours away from Atlanta. Over the course of a year, these small trips amount to quantity rather than the quality of a long break, but I make it work. It gets me out of the house for a few days to experience new things, and it keeps me happy!
I’ll have that post recap of the Asheville trip to you within the next week or two, but first: this bag. I have been on a long search to find the right one, and I’m glad I can check this off my list!
Originally, I’d bought it for two reasons:
- Sponsors and PR companies I work with sometimes ask me to make short promotional trips for the blog. I did so here when I went to New York and here when I went to San Francisco (and a couple more times to New York). Hey, anytime someone asks me to go, I’m absolutely going to take that opportunity, right? The next one is probably going to be Chicago, but more on that later! They are always a lot of fun, but they are often in and out, limiting the amount of plane time. So, I needed a carry on that could fill work-related duties, with enough space for several outfits (nice stuff and then “down time” attire) and a laptop. I don’t always have a clear picture of the types of activities I’ll be doing on these trips (the itinerary sometimes includes surprises to increase their chances of live promotional shares), so a little extra room was important.
- I wanted a bag that simultaneously worked for leisure trips, but it was hard to justify the expense of the weekender bag I originally wanted, which is a pricier pick at $295. Emily Henderson raved about it and loving its features, so I really wanted to get a good quality bag that fit the bill but would also be stylish (a place for shoes, a place for my laptop, etc.). It’s harder to find than you think! So when I found this one with good reviews, I snapped it up thinking that if it doesn’t work, it’ll at least be good enough until I can save up for the pricier one. But now, I might not have to!
The bag is made of camel-colored fabric that feels like leather, but it’s vegan (I didn’t specifically look for that as a feature, but it feels soft). It has side and interior pockets, a comfortable strap, and a zippered bottom that I can stuff about 3 pairs of shoes in. I’ve already packed this thing to the brim repeatedly, and it’s showing no signs of wear yet. I am pretty confident I’ll be able to get my money’s worth over the next few years of travel. Buh-bye, old beat up roller bag!
I intended on taking a photo of me holding the bag so that you could use it for scale (I’m 5’2″, so this looks more like luggage than a purse on my frame), but my camera malfunctioned right as I prepared the photos for this post. So, I’ll update it when I get the chance with a new pic. I will be taking a new trip next month, so it won’t be long before I have another opportunity. :)
Hope you have a great weekend! Do you have any travel essentials you’re obsessed with? I’d love to hear about them!
The post My New Favorite Weekend Travel Bag appeared first on The Ugly Duckling House.
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My New Favorite Weekend Travel Bag published first on https://noambouzaglou.wordpress.com/
Tuesday, April 4, 2017
Monday, April 3, 2017
6 “Small” Things to Focus on with Any Bathroom Remodel
Sometimes, the smallest things are what end up making the biggest difference. Don’t forget to focus on these seemingly little things when have your bathroom remodeled.
1. Light Placement and Style
The placement and style of light may not be at the top of your list right now, but it’s all you’ll be thinking about when you try to do your hair, put in contacts, or apply makeup in the morning. Do your research and work with the contractor or electrician on the job to make sure there is adequate lighting for the shower and for the vanity.
One recommendation? Try to avoid having light right above the mirror and nowhere else. This can wash you out and won’t highlight your face as well as having lights around the mirror or on the sides.
2. Natural Light
If you have the opportunity to bring in some more natural light to your bathroom remodel, we highly recommend it. Many people love having a little window into a private balcony or yard area right in the shower.
3. Outlets
Every bathroom needs GFCI-protected outlets, but have you thought about where they will go? Of course, part of this will have to do with the building codes in your area. But there’s also the consideration of how often you use them. Finding a way to hide the outlets so they are not interfering with design maybe preferable to some, while keeping them more accessible is important to others.
4. Towel Bars
There are people out there who would really prefer no towel bar–and that’s fine! There are hooks and drying racks for this purpose, just be sure you plan for them. Otherwise, plan for a towel bar to match the hardware in your bathroom (handles for cupboards and drawers, etc.).
5. Mirror Size
Some people don’t put much thought into the size of the mirror. Or, if you have a smaller bathroom, you might assume that you should get a small mirror to match. In almost any bathroom, we recommend getting the largest mirror that can fit. It doesn’t really interfere with a design, and it makes a room look much bigger since it reflects the space and the light.
6. Storage
A simple minimalist bathroom may seem appealing to your design tastes, but you’ll regret it when you’re in need of more toilet paper, and it’s not stored under the sink. You might have to forgo that pedestal sink or exposed plumbing design in favor of cabinets. Find other ways to extend space and minimize clutter, such as using neutral, light colors for the walls, limiting decor to one or two items, or even cutting out a bathtub and leaving only a clear shower door.
Call the licensed and bonded team at Advanced Builders & Contractors for bathroom remodeling service in Los Angeles.